What does it take for a designer jewellery label to reach cult status

Valery Demure lets us in on the dos, the don’ts and the hard truths


Valery Demure’s job is the kind that is at once incredibly difficult, yet immensely satisfying. A mentor, a buyer, a PR strategist, the founder of her eponymous agency and an online shopping portal plus a collaborative concept space Objet d’Emotion—she is known name in the luxury jewellery and accessories space for her discerning eye. Having helped with the success of brands like Shourouk, Fernando Jorge, Monique Péan and Noor Fares, there’s no contesting that Demure’s advice is heavily valued. But it’s not just talent she is after—amplifying the reach of a boutique brand is a result of several elements coming together at the same time. We spoke to the opinionated consultant on what it really takes to create a cult favourite jewellery label.

What do you think makes a brand unique?

It’s a mixture of things. What makes an actress unique? What makes a singer unique? It’s talent. But talent without discipline and a business mind can also be completely wasted. I think consistency is very important and now more than before, people are less patient. But it requires patience, to go step-by-step; it’s not going to happen in a day.

How do jewellery brands approach you?

There are various ways. One of them is when I notice a designer and I get in touch, which doesn’t happen a lot. But usually it’s [through] word of mouth. People will tell me, “you should check this designer out” or they contact me. Then we usually ask for marketing material, a look book; we ask what their goals are, do they have a business strategy, are they prepared to work on all of these and not just go in blindly. There are a lot of protocols involved.